Dates Cost Prerequisites Location Guide/Instructor Itinerary/Objectives Equipment Logistics Related programs Registration

Trip Objectives
This trip is aimed at climbing Alpine Rock routes on Joffre and Matier, with possible options for other peaks in the area. The primary objectives often include rock routes on the West Buttress of Mt Matier, the East ridge of Matier and the South ridge of Joffre. These are all excellent alpine rock objectives in a classic mountaineering environment - you will camp high in the alpine surrounded by glaciers, and approaches and descents will be on heavily glaciated terrain. These routes see very little traffic so it is unlikely you will see any other climbing parties during your trip!

Other options include the NW Face of Matier, a classic alpine ice face finishing with a full traverse of Mount Matier; climbs on the North Gullies of Joffre, technical ice and snow mixed lines with amazing positions; and, enchainment's of the three classics in the range - Joffre, Matier and

Trip Itinerary/Outline
The following is a brief possible schedule for the Canada West Mountain School 3-day Joffre Range climbing trip. Many different variables (such as weather, snow and route conditions, group experience levels, etc) influence the actual day-to-day schedule and the order in which climbs are attempted, so the following should be considered a general outline only.

Day 1
Travel to trailhead and meet at pre-arranged time and location. After a quick gear check you will head up the trail to establish your alpine base camp. The afternoon will be spent reviewing critical rope systems, glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills to ensure the group is prepared for the climbs. After a great meal prepared by your Guide, you will have an early evening to ensure that everyone is well rested for the early start the next morning!

Day 2
For your first introduction to climbing in the Joffre Range you will head out for a full day on the West Buttress of Mount Matier. Matier is the highest peak in the range at 2770 meters and boasts a fine array of excellent alpine climbs. The West Buttress route is a great introduction to the area, providing excellent rock and spectacular views across the Lillooet River into the north end of Garibaldi Park! Once on the summit you will continue traversing the peak in order to descend one of the north side snow/ice routes back to the glacier and finally to your camp. Another fine meal in camp and your day is over!

Day 3
On the 3rd and final day you will be up early and out onto the glaciers for the approach to the South Ridge of Mount Joffre. The climbing is generally on a steep ridge, with increasing exposure as you gain the mid section of the route. The final summit is well worth the effort, with a great panorama of the crest of the South Coast Mountains stretching as far as the eye can see, as well as views into the southern Chilcotin Ranges.

Your descent can be via gullies on the southeast side of Joffre, or back down your climbing route with some exhilarating rappels and down climbing! You will be back in camp in time to pack up and head out to your vehicles by late afternoon.

• Boots - Leather mountaineering boots - well broken-in and waterproofed
  
• Backpack - 60-80 liters capacity, big enough to hold all gear for the trip plus some communal gear
• Sleeping bag - good to -10 degrees celsius
  
• Sleeping pad - therma-rest style or closed-cell foam
  
• Day-pack - 30-40 liters capacity (optional, your backpack can also work as a daypack)
  
• Hard shell outer layer jacket with hood - Gore-Tex style
  
• Full-zip pants or bibs - Gore-Tex style (1 pair)
  
• Thermal underwear - top & bottom, Polypro, Capilene, etc.
  
• long climbing pants - nylon, fleece, Schoeller, etc. (1 pr)
  
• Gaiters (1 pr)
  
• Gloves (medium weight) - wool or poly-pro (1 pr)
  
• Waterproof gloves or mitts w/removable liners (gloves work best for rope handling and ice axe use) (1 pr)
  
• Warm parka - down, fleece or pile (1)
  
• Sweater or vest - wool, fleece or down (1)
  
• Socks - wool or synthetic blend (1-2 prs)
• Toque/warm hat - wool or fleece (1)
  
• Sunglasses with side shields and nose shield (1 pr)
  
• Ski goggles (optional)
  
• Headlamp with extra set of batteries and extra bulb
  
• Personal eating utensils - cup, bowl, spoon, etc
  
• Personal 1st aid (blister kit, toothbrush, blister kit, toilet paper, medications, etc.)
  
• Misc. personal items (camera, journal, etc.)
  
• Sunscreen - minimum 30 spf
• Water bottles - minimum 1 litres
  
• Small "thermos" for hot drinks (optional)
  
• Knife - Swiss army style
• Compass and map (optional)

Technical equipment:
• Crampons - adjusted to your boots (1 pr)
  
• 2 x 5 meter lengths of 7mm accessory climbing cord
• 1 x 1 meter length of 7mm accessory climbing cord
• 1 x double shoulder sling, full strength - sewn or non-sewn

Technical and group equipment (supplied by CWMS if required):
• Ice ax and technical climbing tools
• Climbing harness - seat harness only
• Helmet
• 3 locking carabiners
• 1 belay device


• tents (as necessary)
  
• Single burner stoves and fuel (1 stove per 2-3 people)
  
• Cooking sets (2 pots per 3 people)

In addition, Canada West Mountain School supplies all other technical and safety gear as well as all food and cooking.