Alpine Skills week
For the developing Alpinist, this program delivers 6 intensive days of pure alpine skills for those that already have experience rock climbing outdoors. Your previous rock climbing background allows you to focus on Alpine Climbing skills and techniques on this course. Time is spent in the alpine learning and applying technical skills – snow and glacier travel, ice climbing, alpine rock, crevasse rescue, mountain navigation, route planning, weather evaluation and hazard assessment.
The Alpine Skills Program course is the ideal course for anyone who has a solid understanding of rope skills and rock climbing. The emphasis of this program is to teach mountaineering skills and techniques to climbers who already have a rock climbing background. This course is very similar to Complete Mountaineering, though there will be more time spent learning and practicing Alpine-specific skills on this course as participants will already have the basic rope management skills such as knot-tying, belaying and rappelling
At the conclusion of this course, students will have been taught:
methods for planning and preparing for a multi-day mountaineering objective
how to recognize mountain hazards, and methods of avoiding or minimizing those hazards
navigation techniques using a map, compass and altimeter
rope management skills related to rock, snow and ice climbing
glacier travel techniques
climbing and movement skills for rock, snow and ice
alpine travel skills for moderately technical terrain and glaciers
crevasse rescue fundamentals with a three person rope-team
Minimum Environmental Impact camping and travel practices
methods to practice and refine each set of skills taught on the course, on their own time
- The first day of this course is typically spent in Squamish, BC to review rock skills, rope techniques and introduce rescue basics. The actual location of the Alpine portion of this course will be decided one week prior to the course start date, as there are many variables that need to be considered, including weather, snow conditions, previous experience of the group, and road conditions. Typical locations include the Joffre Range about 1 hour northeast of Whistler, BC; the Spearhead Range, directly to the east of Whistler, BC; and, occasionally we will arrange to fly into the Tantalus Range above Squamish, BC (Flight costs are extra with this option).
Each of our Alpine and Mountaineering programs are taught by some of the best climbers and Guides in Canada. All are certified by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) and each one has a passion for teaching that will inspire you in your climbing pursuits.
Visit Guides and Instructors Page for complete details and background on each of our Guide Team.
- The following is a brief possible schedule for the Canada West Mountain School 6-day Alpine Skills Week. Many different variables (such as weather, snow conditions, group experience levels, etc) influence the actual day-to-day schedule and the order in which topics are presented, so the following should be considered a general outline only.
All of the course planning will take place by phone, email and/or in person at our office in the weeks and days leading up to the course. You will receive a comprehensive package after you have registered, detailing all of the critical areas to plan and prepare for. Areas covered are equipment, pre-course training, menu planning, logistics and weather.
Meet in Squamish - Preparation and tone setting (2 hours)
Skills covered: introductions, course objectives, gear review, communication, safety awareness, logistics planning.
Rock climbing and rope skills review (4 hours)
Skills covered: rope management review, rope rescue, anchor building
Menu planning and final packing (2 hours)
Approach to Alpine region base camp (approx. 2-3 hours )
Skills covered: Navigation, map reading, pacing, group management, route finding, hazard awareness
Camp set up (2 hours)
Skills covered: Camp selection, hazard awareness, sanitation, environmental awareness, food storage, water, campcraft tips
Introductory snow travel session (3-4 hours)
Skills covered: Hazard awareness, navigation, off-trail travel, basic ice ax use, walking on snow, self-arrests
Evening debrief (1 hour)
Skills covered: overview of day, tomorrow's objectives, pre-planning, sort and pack gear for next morning, weather
Steep snow and alpine travel skills (8-10 hours)
Skills covered: Steep snow climbing, navigation and route finding, possible summit climb
Approach to site for glacier travel instruction (2 hours)
Skills covered: Navigation, pacing, group management, route finding, hazard awareness, glacier study
Introduction to travel on ice (1 - 2 hours):
Skills covered: Crampon technique, ice screw placement, walking on ice, hazard assessment, anchor building, step cutting
Glacier travel and rescue skills (4 - 6 hours):
Skills covered: Rope skills for glacier travel, route finding on glaciers, travel techniques for "dry" glacier and for snow covered glacier, crevasse rescues, general glacier travel
Possible extra skills: Summit climb, serac or ice climbing if conditions allow
Peak objective/travel day (10 - 12 hours)
Skills covered: Application of all of above plus what ever comes up. Focus on hazard assessment and use of skills/tools to achieve objectives. This is the "put it all together" day
Morning wrap up of final course objectives (4 - 6 hours)
Skills covered: Finishing off main objectives, ascending ropes, rappelling, more rescue, serac climbing, orienteering, whatever the instructors and/or students feel they need
Break camp/hike out (3 hours)
Skills covered: Navigation, map reading, pacing, group management, route finding, hazard awareness.
Wrap up and student assessments (1 - 2 hours)
- Please prepare you gear with the goal of reducing the weight of your pack as much as possible.
Here is a link to our Mountaineering Gear list - Mountaineering Course Gear List
Plan on using the same personal clothing and camping equipment that you would take on an overnight backpacking trip. Your Base Camp on the Mountaineering courses will often be in an alpine or sub-alpine location and exposed to the weather.
You will be working each day in and on snow, so it is important to have proper boots suitable for snow travel. Boots also must be appropriate for use with general mountaineering-style crampons (See the FAQ section for details on Boots)
As for weather, you should always plan for the worst which includes temperatures of close to freezing or slightly below at night, and possible precipitation of rain and/or wet snow each day. Please ensure your clothing and gear is suitable for these conditions.
Technical gear is listed on the Gear list. Students are asked to supply their own basic slings and cords, as these items may experience wear on each course. These items are available at outdoor stores such as MEC. All other technical gear is supplied, with the exception of Crampons, which are required. There are many styles of attachment systems yet any general mountaineering crampon will work, as long as they are compatible with your boots. Crampons are available to rent at many outdoor stores such as MEC.
In regards to communal gear such as tents, stoves and cookware, we encourage people to share tents and cooking gear/stoves. If you already have a team or partner planned, this is great. If you wish, we can help coordinate this for you and put you in contact with other students - just let us know when you book your course.
Review these documents, and bring signed copies of the Waiver and Medical Form to your program.
Canada West Mountain School Refund Policy - Refund Policy
Canada West Mountain School Waiver - Waiver
Canada West Mountain School Medical Disclosure Form - Medical form
Mountain Skills Essentials Pre-planning document - Mountain Skills Week Pre-planning