Mt Logan, Canada
Join us on this journey to Canada’s highest peak, Mt. Logan at 5,959 meters. Canada West Mountain School has been leading ski mountaineering expeditions up the Kings Trench for over 15 years, one of the classic routes of North Americas high mountain ranges. Mount Logan is the 2nd highest mountain in North America, and is often compared to Alaska’s Denali (Mt McKinley) as “a more spectacular mountain without the crowds”. Unlike most trips on Denali, though, our Logan expeditions are ski-based to allow for quicker travel and enjoyable descents!
- Cost includes:
- flights on/off Mt. Logan
- guide fees
- all permit fees and landing fees
- trip food
- group technical/safety equipment
- satellite phone
- ground transportation from Whitehorse to Kluane Lake
Climbers on this program should have multi-day climbing, backpacking or ski touring experience and be in excellent physical condition. Previous technical climbing experience is not required, though travel will be on glaciers using ropes.
The climbing on Logan is generally non-technical glacier travel and crevasse rescue will be taught as required during the initial stages of the trip. Previous high altitude experience is not essential, though it is helpful.
This is a Ski Mountaineering expedition and skis will be used for the complete ascent (and descent!), pending conditions. All Members of the expedition should be advanced-intermediate or expert skiers with backcountry touring experience.
Due to the nature of the climb and the amount of time required, team members should be prepared to carry large packs and/or haul sleds while ferrying loads between camps. Pack sizes will be approx. 25-30 kg per person for each carry.
Please contact our office directly if you have questions regarding your suitability for this climb expedition.
- The Kings Trench route on Logan is an isolated and adventurous path for ski mountaineers to the highest summit in Canada and 2nd highest in North America. This route is similar in nature to most of the West Buttress route on Denali, with the exception of the fixed ropes section on Denali - no fixed ropes or steep climbing are encountered on the Kings Trench route. Unlike Denali, the Kings Trench route on Logan is also a great ski mountaineering objective!
This once-in-a-lifetime trip starts with a 1-hour flight through some of the highest, most remote mountains in North America. After landing at approximately 2,800 meters at the lower end of the "Kings Trench", we will set our base camp on the Quintino Sella Glacier. From there we spend 5-6 days making our way on skis up the glaciers to establish an Advanced Base Camp at the 4,000 meter col between the Logan Massif and King Peak. After this point, in order to continue acclimatizing well, we will take a rest day before staging our carries over the next few days onto the upper mountain. Our final camp will be at approximately 5,500 meters in preparation for the summit attempt. After the summit, our descent back down our route will take a quick two days. A climb up (and ski run down) to be remembered!
Due to the need to acclimatize on a mountain of this nature, the elevation gain between camps is only 600-700 meters every 2-days. This allows for a slower pace, though participants should be in excellent physical condition and be prepared for extreme weather conditions and altitude.
The 2017 Mount Logan Expedition will be lead by one of our lead ACMG Mountain Guides, please check back soon to confirm final details.
- The Mount Logan Kings Trench trip departs from Whitehorse, in the Yukon Territory of Canada.
The team will meet on the morning of Day-1 (May 6th, 2017) in Whitehorse and go over final details and equipment checks before heading to the Kluane Lake staging area for the flight onto Logan. Participants are responsible for getting themselves to (and from) Whitehorse and all accommodation and meals while in Whitehorse. We recommend that participants plan to arrive in Whitehorse on May 5th.
All air and ground transportation, food, permits, Guiding services and group equipment is supplied after departing Whitehorse on May 7th.
Please note that the flight onto Mount Logan is contingent on safe flying and weather conditions. Due to the nature of the mountain region of the St. Elias ranges, inclement weather can delay flights for periods of up to two weeks, or longer.
In the event of weather delays, the team will be camping while based at the airstrip on Kluane Lake. There are limited facilities and amenities at this location so participants should prepare for possible extended stay of camping. A small number of hotels and B&B's may have available accommodation as an option for those who are interested.
Any extra costs as a result of delays in flying into the Mount Logan region are the responsibility of the participants, including hotel accommodation and extra transportation costs.
- Mount Logan Expedition equipment list