Mt Joffre, BC

The Joffre Range in the South Coast Mountains combines excellent access with some of the finest moderate technical alpine routes in Southern BC. Our Guided trips into this region typically will focus on climbs of Mount Joffre (2,710 meters), with a secondary objective of nearby Mount Matier (2,770 meters) if time and conditions permit.

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Guided climbs on Joffre are arranged on an individual basis. Please review the Cost Details tab, select your preferred start date below and click on Check Availability or contact us directly a info@themountaischool.com. The best season for climbing Joffre is between mid-June and October.
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  • 2024 Costs (Matier or Joffre):
      Cost for a 2-day climbing program with 1 ACMG Guide:
    • Group of 3 climbers (1:3 ratio) - $600/person + GST
    • Group of 2 climbers (1:2 ratio) - $800/person + GST
    • 1 climber (1:1 ratio) - $1,450/person + GST

      Cost for a 3-day climbing program with 1 ACMG Guide:
    • Group of 3 climbers (1:3 ratio) - $800/person + GST
    • Group of 2 climbers (1:2 ratio) - $1,125/person + GST
    • 1 climber (1:1 ratio) - $2,100/person + GST

      Cost for a 1-day climbing program with 1 ACMG Guide:
    • Contact our office to discuss options for a 1-day ascent

      All of the above costs include:
    • Guiding with ACMG Ski, Alpine, or Mountain Guides
    • all technical climbing equipment including harnesses, helmets, ropes, etc. (excluding crampons and mountaineering boots)
    • camping equipment if needed
    • full pre-trip support from our office support staff and Guides

      Participants are responsible for the following unless otherwise arranged in advance:
    • transportation to/from the trailhead. The access is via Highway 99 (AKA the "Duffey Lake Rd") a paved highway that is maintained year round; suitable for any vehicle.
    • food for participants. Food prep services can be provided at an added cost if requested.
    • personal equipment and clothing, unless otherwise pre-arranged (see Equipment List Tab)
    • tips or gratuities for guide
    Contact the Canada West Mountain School office for further details and costs regarding food, transportation options, and additional gear requests/rentals.

  • The standard routes on Joffre are the South and East facing rock ridges, rising above the Anniversary and Matier Glaciers. These are done typically in 2 or 3 days. The first day we hike in and set up camp on or close to one of the glaciers in the region, depending on current snow and glacier conditions. The hike in to base camp is around 3-5 hours. During the afternoon of day-1 you will review all the skills required for the climb - snow travel, self arrests, belaying, basic glacier travel skills and rescue, etc.

    The 2nd day you will start at around 4 am or 5 am and head up to the climb. You will descend via the same route. By August the snow is usually retreated a lot and more travel on glacier ice and rock climbing is required for climbs in late summer season conditions.

    Typically a team can be on the summit in 5-6 hours, and back to the camp or hut by 3-4 pm. The hike out to the car from camp is about 2-4 hours.

    A similar program can be used to climb nearby Mt. Matier as well.

    The best season is early July and onward. The main concerns on this route are melting snow that can make travel challenging and increase chance of rockfall. This is more typical of early to mid June, but can be an issue all season depending on the conditions, which of course vary widely from year to year. As for late season, we typically are leading groups on Matier and Joffre as late as early October

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