Mt Joffre, BC
The Joffre Range in the South Coast Mountains combines excellent access with some of the finest moderate technical alpine routes in Southern BC. Our Guided trips into this region typically will focus on climbs of Mount Joffre (2,710 meters), with a secondary objective of nearby Mount Matier at 2770 meters, if time and conditions permit.
- Costs are based on a 2-day program with climbs on Joffre and Matier
Costs for a climb on Mount Joffre as follows:
- Base rate of $475/day for one person
- $550/day for 2 people ($275/person/day)
- $625/day for 3 people ($208/person/day)
On a route like this our maximum Guide to Climber ratio is 1:3. If there are 4 or more people, we would have 2 guides.
These costs will include all guiding costs and all technical equipment. It will not include transportation costs, food costs, personal gear, or hut fees ($20/person/night if staying at the Flavelle Hut).
- The standard climb on Joffre can be done via Cerise Creek (Anniversary Gl) in 2 or 3 days. The first day we hike in and set up camp at 2,000 meters, or stay in the Flavelle Hut at about 1,700 meters. The hike in is around 3 hours. In the afternoon of day-1 we would review all the skills required for the climb - snow travel, self arrests, belaying, basic glacier travel skills and rescue, etc.
The 2nd day we would leave at around 4 am or 5 am and head up to the climb on Joffre. There is some glacier travel required, but not too much. In early season up until August, the route is mainly snow/glacier for the first half, then mixed rock and scrambling for the 2nd half. We descend via the same route. By August the snow is usually retreated a lot and a lot more rock climbing is required.
Typically a team can be on the summit in 5-6 hours, and back to the camp or hut by 3-4 pm. The hike out to the car from camp is about 2 hours.
The same program can be used to climb nearby Mt. Matier as well.
Alternately, many groups choose a 3-day option and go in to climb Joffre on one day, and Mt Maier on another day. This is a bit more strenuous as the camp should be set at the 2,000 meter camp for sure, or ideally even a higher camp we use in the Joffre/Matier col, at 2,400 meters, so you need to carry your overnight gear to a higher camp.
The best season is early July and onwards. Our main concerns on this route are melting snow that can make travel challenging and increase chance of rockfall. This is more typical of early to mid June, but can be an issue all season depending on the conditions, which of course vary widely from year to year. As for late season, we typically are leading groups on Matier and Joffre as late as early October