Mt Matier, BC

Mount Matier at 2,770 meters is the highest peak in the Joffre Range north of Whistler, BC. A classic mountaineering objective, there are steep snow routes, alpine ice faces and granite ridge routes all leading to the summit. A climb of Mt Matier can be done in the summer and also as a ski mountaineering ascent in the winter (the ski descent from the summit of Matier and down the Anniversary Glacier is over 1,000 meters of vertical!)

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Guided climbs on Matier are arranged on an individual basis. Please review the Cost Details tab, select your preferred dates below and click on Check Availability. The best season for Alpine climbing in the Matier region is between mid-June and October. Ski mountaineering on Matier is best from January to June.
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  • 2024 Costs (Matier or Joffre):
      Cost for a 2-day climbing program with 1 ACMG Guide:
    • Group of 3 climbers (1:3 ratio) - $600/person + GST
    • Group of 2 climbers (1:2 ratio) - $800/person + GST
    • 1 climber (1:1 ratio) - $1,450/person + GST

      Cost for a 3-day climbing program with 1 ACMG Guide:
    • Group of 3 climbers (1:3 ratio) - $800/person + GST
    • Group of 2 climbers (1:2 ratio) - $1,125/person + GST
    • 1 climber (1:1 ratio) - $2,100/person + GST

      Cost for a 1-day climbing program with 1 ACMG Guide:
    • Contact our office to discuss options for a 1-day ascent

      All of the above costs include:
    • Guiding with ACMG Ski, Alpine, or Mountain Guides
    • all technical climbing equipment including harnesses, helmets, ropes, etc. (excluding crampons and mountaineering boots)
    • camping equipment if needed
    • full pre-trip support from our office support staff and Guides

      Participants are responsible for the following unless otherwise arranged in advance:
    • transportation to/from the trailhead. The access is via Highway 99 (AKA the "Duffey Lake Rd") a paved highway that is maintained year round; suitable for any vehicle.
    • food for participants. Food prep services can be provided at an added cost if requested.
    • personal equipment and clothing, unless otherwise pre-arranged (see Equipment List Tab)
    • tips or gratuities for guide
    Contact the Canada West Mountain School office for further details and costs regarding food, transportation options, and additional gear requests/rentals.

  • The standard routes on Matier are the north side alpine ice and snow faces, include the NW Face and NE Ridge. These are done via Cerise Creek (Anniversary Gl) in 2 or 3 days. The first day we hike in and set up camp at 2,000 meters, or stay in Keith's Hut ($20 donation per/person per/night required) at 1,700 meters. The hike in to base camp or the hut is around 3 hours. During the afternoon of day-1 you will review all the skills required for the climb - snow travel, self arrests, belaying, basic glacier travel skills and rescue, etc.

    The 2nd day you will start at around 4 am or 5 am and head up to the climb. You will descend via the same route. By August the snow is usually retreated a lot and more travel on glacier ice and rock climbing is required.

    Typically a team can be on the summit in 5-6 hours, and back to the camp or hut by 3-4 pm. The hike out to the car from camp is about 2 hours.

    The same program can be used to climb nearby Mt. Matier as well.

    Alternately, many groups choose a 3-day option and ascend the Anniversary Glacier on Day-1 to establish a higher camp. The next day (Day-2) you will climb a route on Mt Matier; and, climb Joffre on Day-3. This is a bit more strenuous as the camp should be set at the 2,000 meter camp for sure, or ideally even a higher camp we use in the Joffre/Matier col, at 2,400 meters, so you need to carry your overnight gear to a higher camp.

    The best season is early July and onwards. Our main concerns on this route are melting snow that can make travel challenging and increase chance of rockfall. This is more typical of early to mid June, but can be an issue all season depending on the conditions, which of course vary widely from year to year. As for late season, we typically are leading groups on Matier and Joffre as late as early October

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