Tantalus Range Alpinism

• Cost Details

  The Advanced Alpinism course cost includes:
  - all Instruction and Guiding by ACMG Certified Alpine Guides
  - all hut fees for the Alpine Club of Canada Jim Haberl Hut
  - all technical equipment as required
  - all Guide/Instructor costs

  Course cost does not include:
  - tranportation to/from Squamish
  - Helicopter fees of approx $350 per participant (payable to helicopter company)
  - Personal food costs
  - Personal gear and equipment

• Description

  An intensive four days of climbing in the spectacular Tantalus Range of SW British Columbia will allow you to improve your skills in a challenging alpine environment. You will be mentored by our certified ACMG Alpine Guides for all the climbing, spending time between learning from our experienced Guides and also taking the lead when ever possible. Attention is focused on personal climbing technique, hazard awareness, alpine climbing systems, decision-making and technical route finding.

  You will spend each day climbing peaks with a wide variety of terrain options. This is an excellent training opportunity for those looking to pursue more technically challenging alpine climbing objectives.

• Location

  Our Advanced Tantalus Range Alpinism program is conducted in the Tantalus Range in the Coast Mountains of BC. Located above the town of Squamish, you will access this excellent group of peaks by a short (15 minute) helicopter flight.

  The group will arrange to meet at 0730 in Squamish on Day-1 and have a pre-trip meeting to review course objectives and do a final gear check. From there, you will head directly into the mountains. This format allows for the most effective use of time in the mountains.

  In the event of poor weather interfering with the helicopter flight into the Tantalus Range, alternate locations include Joffre and Matier Peaks, both having a good variety of both big alpine ice faces and technical Alpine rock routes well suited to this level of climbing. Other options include a day of training in Squamish to cover technical alpine climbing systems before flying into the Tantalus, if the weather is unsettled but improving.

• Guides/Instructors

  Our Advanced level Tantalus Range Alpine Climbing programs are lead by some of the best climbers and ACMG Alpine and Mountain Guides in Canada. All are certified by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) and in addition to being amazing guide, each one has a passion for teaching that will inspire you in your climbing pursuits.

  Visit Guides and Instructors Page for complete details and background on each of our Guide Team.

• Itinerary

  Itinerary
  The following is a brief possible schedule for the Canada West Mountain School 4-day Advanced Tantalus Range Alpinism program. Many different variables (such as weather, snow conditions, group experience levels, etc) influence the actual day-to-day schedule and the order in which topics are presented, so the following should be considered a general outline only.

  Pre-trip planning
  All course logistics and preparation are planned in advance in direct consultation with our office via phone, e-mail and/or in person. A comprehensive pre-course package is sent out to everyone well in advance of the course dates.
  Day 1
  0730 - Meet in Squamish. Preparation for the alpine portion; group gear review; weather and conditions check; discussion of objectives.
  0900 - Fly to the ACC Jim Haberl Hut in Tantalus Range. Morning and afternoon training and practical field sessions with a possible ascent of a nearby summit.
  

  Day 2-3
  Each of these 2 full days will be spend climbing on various alpine objectives, based on current conditions. Tantalus, Dione East Face and West Face routes; Serratus North Face and West Face; Alpha East Ridge; and, other climbing objectives as conditions permit.

  Day-4
  Morning climbing objectives with an alpine start allow you to get full value from this day as well, before flying out in the mid afternoon for a wrap up session and debrief in Squamish.

• Equipment

  Please prepare you gear with the goal of reducing the weight of your pack as much as possible.

  Here is a link to our Mountaineering Gear list - Mountaineering Course Gear List

  Plan on using the same personal clothing and camping equipment that you would take on an overnight backpacking trip. Your Base Camp on the Mountaineering courses will often be in an alpine or sub-alpine location and exposed to the weather.

  Footwear:
  You will be working each day in and on snow, so it is important to have proper boots suitable for snow travel. Boots also must be appropriate for use with general mountaineering-style crampons (See the FAQ section for details on Boots)

  As for weather, you should always plan for the worst which includes temperatures of close to freezing or slightly below at night, and possible precipitation of rain and/or wet snow each day. Please ensure your clothing and gear is suitable for these conditions.

  Technical gear is listed on the Gear list. Students are asked to supply their own basic slings and cords, as these items may experience wear on each course. These items are available at outdoor stores such as MEC. All other technical gear is supplied, with the exception of Crampons, which are required. There are many styles of attachment systems yet any general mountaineering crampon will work, as long as they are compatible with your boots. Crampons are available to rent at many outdoor stores such as MEC.

• FAQ's

  Questions about Tantalus Range Alpinism program

  What are the best boots for my Mountaineering Course?

  This is one of the most common questions we get, here are some suggestions to help you:

  If you have a selection of boots to choose from, the ideal boot for the Tantalus is a tehcnical mountaineering boot that will perform well on snow and rock.

  If you are looking to purchase new boots before this program, your first goal is to determine what you will be using your boots for after the course or trip, where you will get the most use of them. If you intend to do a fair bit of techncial alpine style of climbing and mountaineering, you will want to look at a stiffer boot with a narrower profile and perhaps a bit lighter. If you will use them for a lot of backpacking trips, a boot with a more flexible sole is ideal and will be more comfortable on the trails. Be aware that while a more flexible sole is comfortable for hiking, it is a trade-off for better security while kicking steps and travelling on steeper snow, where a rigid boot performs better.

  You will next want to consider the type of "welt" (the lip on the toe and heel of the boot). This will determine the style of crampon used for that boot. If you are looking at more technical mountaineering and ice climbing, a boot with a heel and toe welt is a good idea as it will allow a technical “step-in” style of crampon attachment, much simpler and more secure for technical climbing (though these boots are often more rigid and less comfortable for extended walking).

  For general snow use, a “strap on” style of crampon is fine and can go onto any boot, regardless of welt., or no welt at all.

  Another very popular crampon system is a “Hybrid strap-on”, that uses a step-in style for the heel and a strap-on style for the toe. This Hybrid style only requires a heel welt, and is one of the most popular systems for general mountaineering and on our Mountaineering and Alpine programs.

  After you determine the general style of boot, you will need to try a lot of different boots on, and go with the one that has the best fit. A boot that fits well is more important than almost any other factor, as long as it is a decently built boot suitable for the activity. Avoid sales and cheaper boots unless they fit great!

  For most Canada West Mountaineering and Alpine courses, any boot that accepts crampons and is designed for mountaineering or light mountaineering will be fine. Even many sturdier backpacking boots are fine as long as they are reasonably stiff and can accept a crampon.

  Lastly, please make sure that you spend enough time in the boots to break them in before your course or trip!

  Tell me about the Jim Haberl Hut?

  Jim Haberl was a highly respected Mountain Guide and mentor, originally from the Vancouver area, who lived and worked out of Whistler. One of the many influential roles that Jim held was that of Director and Lead Guide for the early Canada West Mountain School program in the 1980's. He was a friend and an important mentor to many of our local Guides. Jim passed away in an avalanche accident in 1999.

  The Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) operates a network of Mountain huts across the western ranges of Canada and built and maintains the Jim Haberl Memorial Hut in the Tantalus Range. Located at 2,000 meters in the col between Serratus and Dione mountains, this hut sleep 12 very comfortably in 2 private rooms, plus has a well outfitted kitchen and dining area. Access is by helicopter, (or a strenuous 2-day technical scramble without trails!). For complete details, visit the ACC page here - Jim Haberl Hut

  How challenging are the climbing objectives?

  The Tantalus Range has a wealth of great moderate Alpine routes to choose from. These climbing routes range from easy snow climbs on 40 degree snow, through to committing multi-pitch alpine rock routes of 5.10+.

  Individual route objectives will be chosen on the day before each climb and are selected with the input of the whole climbing team and will be based on the experience levels of each climber.

  Our Guides are very familiar with all the routes in the Tantalus Range and they will not put you on a climb that is too challenging for you.

  What happens if the weather is not good?

  Weather conditions in the mountains are constantly changing and are one of the many facets of Alpine climbing that mountaineers need to contend with. Specifically for the Tantalus Range the challenge is in the flights into the ACC Jim Haberl Hut. If the weather forecast in advance indicates a high chance that we cannot fly into the Hut, or close by, we will discuss the following options:

  1) The team can spend the first day in Squamish working on relevant climbing skills such as multi-pitch climbing, rescue systems, trad lead climbing, etc. This often will give enough time for the weather to clear and allow the team to fly in to the Tantalus in the afternoon or possibly the morning of Day-2.

  2) If the weather does not look like it is going to improve enough to fly in the first couple of days, we can shift locations to another alpine region. Depending on weather conditions, often when Tantalus is covered in clouds, the weather is great in areas such as the Joffre Ranges or north of Pemberton.

  3) If the weather stops the team from flying in as planned, we always will be able to re-schedule the trip to another date, or give a complete refund.

  Once in the mountains though, many of the routes available to us in the Tantalus can be climbed safely and enjoyably even in poor weather. Of course, the best way to ensure that weather does not take away from your trip is to be well prepared with good quality gear.

  How long are the days?

  A typical day on the Tantalus Range Alpine climbing program begins with a departure from the Jim Haberl Hut at 0500 and a return in the afternoon by 4 pm. Of course, this will vary due to weather and daily objectives, but plan on 8-10 hours away from the Jim Haberl Hut each day.

• Links, Documents and Paperwork

  Review these documents, and bring signed copies of the Waiver and Medical Form to your program.

  Canada West Mountain School Refund Policy - Refund Policy

  Canada West Mountain School Waiver - Waiver

  Canada West Mountain School Medical Disclosure Form - Medical form