Tantalus Range Alpinism

Alpine climbing and mountaineering with our expert ACMG guides in the Tantalus Range! Climb while under the mentorship of some of the top Mountain Guides in BC, exploring alpine routes and summit objectives in the spectacular and rugged Tantalus Range. Based in the Alpine Club of Canada’s Jim Haberl Hut above Squamish, you will hone your technical systems, movement techniques and decision making skills each day before coming back to one of the best mountain huts in Western Canada!

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1:3 Guide to Participant ratio
Includes all technical equipment and Hut Fees
2019 Program dates below. Private dates also available, please contact us for details on arranging a Custom Tantalus Alpine climbing trip.
Pre Requisites:
Previous general mountaineering experience; rock climbing ability to 5.8 outdoor climbing (2nd or top rope experience is fine); good rope management skills; good to excellent physical fitness level.
  • The Advanced Alpinism course cost includes:
    - all Instruction and Guiding by ACMG Certified Alpine Guides
    - all hut fees for the Alpine Club of Canada Jim Haberl Hut
    - all technical equipment as required
    - all Guide/Instructor costs

    Course cost does not include:
    - tranportation to/from Squamish
    - Helicopter fees of approx $350 per participant (payable to helicopter company)
    - Personal food costs
    - Personal gear and equipment

  • An intensive four days of climbing in the spectacular Tantalus Range of SW British Columbia will allow you to improve your skills in a challenging alpine environment. You will be mentored by our certified ACMG Alpine Guides for all the climbing, spending time between learning from our experienced Guides and also taking the lead when ever possible. Attention is focused on personal climbing technique, hazard awareness, alpine climbing systems, decision-making and technical route finding.

    You will spend each day climbing peaks with a wide variety of terrain options. This is an excellent training opportunity for those looking to pursue more technically challenging alpine climbing objectives.

  • Our Advanced Tantalus Range Alpinism program is conducted in the Tantalus Range in the Coast Mountains of BC. Located above the town of Squamish, you will access this excellent group of peaks by a short (15 minute) helicopter flight.

    The group will arrange to meet at 0730 in Squamish on Day-1 and have a pre-trip meeting to review course objectives and do a final gear check. From there, you will head directly into the mountains. This format allows for the most effective use of time in the mountains.

    In the event of poor weather interfering with the helicopter flight into the Tantalus Range, alternate locations include Joffre and Matier Peaks, both having a good variety of both big alpine ice faces and technical Alpine rock routes well suited to this level of climbing. Other options include a day of training in Squamish to cover technical alpine climbing systems before flying into the Tantalus, if the weather is unsettled but improving.

  • Our Advanced level Tantalus Range Alpine Climbing programs are lead by some of the best climbers and ACMG Alpine and Mountain Guides in Canada. All are certified by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) and in addition to being amazing guide, each one has a passion for teaching that will inspire you in your climbing pursuits.

    Visit Guides and Instructors Page for complete details and background on each of our Guide Team.

  • Itinerary
    The following is a brief possible schedule for the Canada West Mountain School 4-day Advanced Tantalus Range Alpinism program. Many different variables (such as weather, snow conditions, group experience levels, etc) influence the actual day-to-day schedule and the order in which topics are presented, so the following should be considered a general outline only.

    Pre-trip planning
    All course logistics and preparation are planned in advance in direct consultation with our office via phone, e-mail and/or in person. A comprehensive pre-course package is sent out to everyone well in advance of the course dates.
    Day 1
    0730 - Meet in Squamish. Preparation for the alpine portion; group gear review; weather and conditions check; discussion of objectives.
    0900 - Fly to the ACC Jim Haberl Hut in Tantalus Range. Morning and afternoon training and practical field sessions with a possible ascent of a nearby summit.

    Day 2-3
    Each of these 2 full days will be spend climbing on various alpine objectives, based on current conditions. Tantalus, Dione East Face and West Face routes; Serratus North Face and West Face; Alpha East Ridge; and, other climbing objectives as conditions permit.

    Morning climbing objectives with an alpine start allow you to get full value from this day as well, before flying out in the mid afternoon for a wrap up session and debrief in Squamish.

  • Please prepare you gear with the goal of reducing the weight of your pack as much as possible.

    Here is a link to our Mountaineering Gear list - Mountaineering Course Gear List

    Plan on using the same personal clothing and camping equipment that you would take on an overnight backpacking trip. Your Base Camp on the Mountaineering courses will often be in an alpine or sub-alpine location and exposed to the weather.

    You will be working each day in and on snow, so it is important to have proper boots suitable for snow travel. Boots also must be appropriate for use with general mountaineering-style crampons (See the FAQ section for details on Boots)

    As for weather, you should always plan for the worst which includes temperatures of close to freezing or slightly below at night, and possible precipitation of rain and/or wet snow each day. Please ensure your clothing and gear is suitable for these conditions.

    Technical gear is listed on the Gear list. Students are asked to supply their own basic slings and cords, as these items may experience wear on each course. These items are available at outdoor stores such as MEC. All other technical gear is supplied, with the exception of Crampons, which are required. There are many styles of attachment systems yet any general mountaineering crampon will work, as long as they are compatible with your boots. Crampons are available to rent at many outdoor stores such as MEC.

  • Questions about Tantalus Range Alpinism program

    What are the best boots for my Mountaineering Course?

    Tell me about the Jim Haberl Hut?

    How challenging are the climbing objectives?

    What happens if the weather is not good?

    How long are the days?

  • Review these documents, and bring signed copies of the Waiver and Medical Form to your program.

    Canada West Mountain School Refund Policy - Refund Policy

    Canada West Mountain School Waiver - Waiver

    Canada West Mountain School Medical Disclosure Form - Medical form